June 13th, 2007 — Garden Watering Equipments

Sprinklers, Misters, and Soaker Hoses: For Hands-Off Watering
What sprinklers, misters, and soaker hoses have in common is that they apply a predictable amount of water to a prescribed area in a given amount of time. That, and they save you time. Sprinklers are the most common of the three, but there are good reasons for the increasing popularity of misting systems and soaker hoses. Sprinklers are very effective at delivering a good drenching, making them excellent for starting new lawns, getting new garden beds off to a healthy start and such. But lots of water is lost to evaporation with sprinklers, and in many parts of the country, concern about the increasing demand on the water supply has heightened particularly with drought conditions having become more common. Overhead watering also increases the danger of fungal diseases with many shrubs, flowers, and vegetables. Misting systems and soaker hoses, on the other hand deliver water where it’s needed, at plants’ “feet,” reducing both the amount of evaporative loss and the risk of fungal disease. Still, there’s nothing like a sprinkler for establishing new garden beds or lawns.

Automatic Water Timer: Convenience
The next step up in terms of convenience and efficiency (you can be on vacation in another country while your garden is getting watered, after all) is a sprinkler or mister system on a faucet-mounted timer. Timers vary in cost and complexity, from simple, inexpensive mechanical timers that work like kitchen timers to sophisticated electronic timers that can be programmed differently for every day of the week and that will turn the water on and off several times each day. But more in terms of features or functions is not necessarily better; it’s all a matter of personal preference and habits.
For someone who’s going to be around while a sprinkler is running, a simple, mechanical timer is generally more than adequate and will perform one of a timer’s most important functions. It will free you from having to remember that the system is on, eliminating the possibility of running your well dry or flooding your garden. But if you’re juggling work, shopping, cooking, kids’ activities, and, oh yes, gardening, or if you’re ever planning on taking a summer vacation - then a timer you can program would seem to be a better bargain.
Source: www.plowheart.com
June 12th, 2007 — Garden Watering Equipments
Whether it is a small patch of lawn or an acre of a garden it’s a good idea to assemble a purposeful kit of watering essentials for the kind of gardening you do. The key is to be able to provide the right amount of equipments needed.
Start With The Basics: A Good Watering Can
A good-quality, large-capacity watering can will take care of all your watering needs. Make sure it holds at least 6 qt., but no more than 12 qt., or it will be too heavy to carry comfortably. Also, it should be made of either heavy-gauge, UV-resistant plastic or galvanized or enameled steel. Finally, it should be well balanced and have a removable rose (the perforated spout), so that you can use the can without the rose if need be.

Hose and Wand: A Dynamic Duo
For all gardens, although a watering can be essential, it is not the primary water-delivery system. Rather, that’s the role of the hose and watering wand, the everyday workhorse combo that makes keeping even a large garden watered a manageable task. A good-quality hose is a lifetime investment, or nearly so, so don’t skimp. It should be non-kinking, at least 5/8 in. in diameter, with brass fittings and a rubber washer so it doesn’t leak at the faucet end.
A watering wand consists of three basic parts: an on-off valve, an extension tube, and a breaker that converts a steady stream of water into a gentler pattern of droplets much like a watering can’s rose does. A good wand will either have a sturdy brass on-off valve or a locking plastic valve, as well as a removable breaker, so it can be cleaned of water-borne sediment, which will tend to clog the breaker over time.

Keep It Neat (Or Simply Let it Lie Around)
Some gardeners can’t bear seeing a hose snaking across the lawn, so a reel or hose bowl in which the hose can live when it’s not in use may be a perfect solution. For others the very idea of having to drag a hose in and out every day will seem absurd, the hose is just one more fixture of summer in the garden, happily and unselfconsciously hanging out with the watering can, spade, fork, trowel, hoe, and wheelbarrow.

Sources:
- www.gardeners.com
- www.plowheart.com
June 11th, 2007 — Garden Watering

Plants need water. Although nature provides but we can not totally rely on rain alone. There are many ways to water plants; one is by hand (using one of several different sprinkler attachments, with soaker hoses), or by using an automatic sprinkler system. But whether we use manual or an automatic watering system, it is important to deliver water where it’s needed - directly to a plant’s root zone.
For neophyte gardeners, how much water is enough? Different plants vary in their moisture requirements, and even the same plant will differ in its needs depending on the soil in which it’s planted, the weather, and the season. But to the extent that generalizations can be made, an inch of water per week during the growing season is a good benchmark. Younger plants need shallower and more frequent watering, while older plants benefit from fewer, deeper watering (they encourage roots to search deeply for water), but the overall quantity should be about the same.
Although water requirements are dependent on specifics such as plant type, soil type, growing conditions, weather and exposure, there are some general tips for watering that are effective in most gardens:
- Increase the soil’s ability to retain moisture by improving your garden soil with organic matter such as compost, manure or leaf-mould.
- Improve water penetration and increase the soil’s moisture-retaining ability during dry periods by digging down deeply into the soil before planting.
- Water the area of soil around the roots. Best way to do this is by using a water can instead of hose or sprinkler.
- Water only until the soil feels moist. It is best also to water the plants early in the morning than during midday because water will evaporate.
- It is advisable not to water the plants during windy days in order to reduce evaporation.
- By watering the plants less frequently, but deeply and thoroughly, plants are likely to develop healthy root systems.
- To save on water, collect rainwater in a water barrel for use in your garden by positioning one water barrel under one of the drainpipes in your home.
June 10th, 2007 — Soft Elements: Plants

Annuals - Everybody knows of these garden favorites, prized for their showy display of flowers. They live for one year, and die in winter, sometimes re-seeding themselves to grow again the next year. They definitely require more attention and maintenance than other plant types, but there is no denying the value of their showy flowers throughout the spring, summer and fall. These bring an enormous array of colors to the garden palette, and are the material of choice for avid gardeners.

Perennials - Like shrubs, these plants live for a number of years, often 10 or more. They are differentiated by the fact that they die back to the ground every winter, re-growing each spring, and thus do not typically have woody (hardened) stems. They are typically smaller than many shrubs (less than 3 feet tall), and can have more prominent flowering characteristics, although some are still chosen for foliage, texture or function. These plants are the backbone of low-maintenance flower gardens.

Vines - Vines are basically shrubs that prefer to grow on or up another structure, such as a fence, pergola or even a tree. They can climb, ramble, and sprawl over man-made constructions, thus softening them by adding a touch of life. They also enhance the vertical dimension, raising your garden into the air, to places where plants would otherwise not be able to grow. Many vines have been selected for their flowering characteristics, such as clematis, wisteria or climbing roses.
June 9th, 2007 — Soft Elements: Plants

Plants can be generally classified into the following groups:
Trees - Trees are considered to be the most vital element in landscaping design because they function as the backbone of a landscape. They take years to grow and almost impossible to move or transfer upon full growth. Most often, they in fact outlived their owners. Trees therefore require the most planning and foresight. They almost always have a single trunk, although they can some in clumps, as with birch, or with two or more trunks; trees with multiple trunks will usually grow wider than the same species with single trunks.

Red-Yellow Azaleas Shrubs
Shrubs - Shrubs are more relevant to the human scale, forming accents, screens, and the foundation for mixed gardens. They are an invaluable landscaping tool for smaller yards and properties, and bring a sense of scale to larger properties. Many are favored for their flowering habits however other characteristics such as texture and form can have a more lasting impact on a landscape. Shrubs typically have multiple stems, often originating at ground level, although some can be trained into tree form with proper pruning.
June 8th, 2007 — Landscaping

Landscaping is the beautification of out door terrain which is mainly engaged in exterior works and gardening in both residential and non-residential buildings and parks through the process of planting trees, flowers, shrubs, grasses, water fountains, construction of walkways, pavements and drainage.
Landscaping as a form of art is about composition. It is the combination of various elements that will create a tableau that is both aesthetically pleasing and functional. By blending soft elements like plants with hard elements like structures in order to create a harmonious picture instead of being just a mere mixture of individual objects is the heart and meaning of landscaping.
Elements are simply the “stuff†that you put into your landscape. They can be hard elements, like stone, statuary, fences, decks, etc., or they can be dynamic, such as plants or water gardens. Hard elements are typically those that do not easily change with the passing of the seasons and years, and bring permanence to a landscape. On the other hand, dynamic materials, which are primarily plant-based, add life to a landscape, and typically change with time. There is no doubt that both are essential to a good landscaping composition. The best landscapes utilize a controlled balance of the two material types.
June 7th, 2007 — Garden Carts
A garden cart is an indispensable tool for gardeners with yards, gardens or landscapes of any size. Store all of your hand tools, long-handled tools, watering supplies, gloves and more in a strong, flexible utility cart or caddy to move around with ease. Garden and utility carts come in a wide variety of styles, from simple metal platforms with wheels made of lightweight aluminium to terrific motorized lawn utility vehicles for the larger yard or landscape. The LUV Cart carries up to 200 pounds—on its own power—no lifting, no pushing or balancing. You will also find many carts for yardwork come with a variety of accessories such as additional storage pouches, for garden tools or soil, which expand their usefulness. No matter how big an area you tend, a cart can take reduce some of the work and add a little more pleasure to home gardening.
New Trends in Garden Carts:

This Ultimate Garden Caddy - keeps tools handy and organized. This ergonomically designed caddy with easy-rolling pneumatic tires, powder-coated steel cart is outfitted with space for long-and short-handled tools. Stash gloves, seeds, and twine in the 27-pouch tool organizer, which can slip off to convert to a tool bag with shoulder strap. Removable five-gallon trash/compost container. Transport soil and garden waste easily.
LUV Garden Cart (Light Utility Vehicle Cart)

This battery-driven lawn and garden cart is easiest way ever to do yard work! LUV Cart carries up to 200 pounds on its own power. No lifting, no pushing, no balancing. Power Driven Performance for your Lawn!
LUV cart is powered by a long-lasting, maintenance-free, rechargeable 12-volt battery. Front-wheel drive with 1 motor per wheel for maximum power and torque. The weight-forward design allows for effortless dumping. Maneuvers anywhere around the yard. Large-capacity 5 cubic foot bed. Fully enclosed electronics and gearbox for use on wet or dry surfaces. Rated to carry up to 200 pounds. Moves forward at a speed of 2mph on level ground. Just push the Control Paddle and steer the LUV takes care of the rest
June 6th, 2007 — Garden Tools Racks/Organizers
Tool Rack

This space-saving Tool Holder keeps your hoes, rakes, brooms and shovels upright and easy to access in a compact amount of space. No more wondering which corner of the garage your hoe is hiding in! Constructed of solid cedar, its grid forms twelve individual storage slots. You can now store most of your garden tools in less than 3 square feet of floor space! Included hardware and pre-drilled holes ensure easy assembly. Available with or without casters.
Storage Rock Tool Organizer

It looks like real stone, but it is made out of high density, UV-protected polyethylene! A hand-painted finish on the rough surface completes the impression of solid granite. This unique, well-designed and attractive storage wall is hand finished to match existing landscape.
Tool Rack

This shelving system comes complete with all the storage needed for organizing gardening tools on your patio or in your garage.
June 5th, 2007 — Garden Tools Racks/Organizers
Garden tools do not only need to be cleaned and secured in a safe place, but they also need to be stored properly. Storing your tools off of the ground with adequate support protects the tools metal components for dents, scratches and chips and keeps moisture from seeping up wood handles. Garden tool organizers, racks and hangers have come a long and are now available in a wide variety of styles and sizes. There is always one available for even just a few tools or a wide collection.
Features to consider when selecting garden tool organizers:
- The number of tools for safekeeping
- The type of tools you own
- How much space is available for storage
Tool Rack With Wheels

This tool rack holds over 30 tools - 20 large tools, and 17 small tools, weed trimmer/leaf blower, and electrical cord to name a few! Convenient side access tool slots with clips to keep tools secure. Steel core support adds strength and durability. Wheels allow easy movement of the unit. Tools positioned with heads down add weight to base for more stability. Easy assembly.
Mesh Garden Tool Organizer

Constructed of a durable, dark green vinyl coated poly mesh fabric and edged with black acrylic binding to prevent raveling. 8 deep pockets for storing those long handled tools, such as rakes, shovels, brooms, and/or mops. There are also 8 smaller pockets for storing those short handled garden tools such as spades, trowels, and hand clippers. 4 quick release buckles and straps, positioned on each top corner of unit for storing extension cords, garden hoses, and weed eater twine and 2 on center bottom of unit for holding that weed eater in place or any other tool available.
Garden Tool Organizer

A great way to condense your storage needs, this top loading grid design organizes up to 40 items in under 2 square feet. Various shapes and sizes in the grid let you store a variety of items including tools or sporting goods. Includes an extension cord wrap and three pegs for hanging items. Secures to the wall for safety and stability with supplied screws.
Source: StacksandStacks
June 4th, 2007 — Soil

Soil conditions are of critical importance to plants. To achieve a perfect union between plants and soil, it is therefore important to both understand soil characteristics, and the specific preferences of individual plants.
Soils can be defined by texture, pH and fertility:
A. Soil texture is the composition of the soil. Soils are a blend of mineral particles and organic matter, which is essentially decomposed plant material. A great deal of soil structure is related to the size of the mineral particles. Large particles are basically sand, medium sized particles are called silt, and extremely small (microscopic) particles are the major constituents of clay.
- Sandy soils are typically very well drained, but because of this, they do not retain water well and are therefore subject to frequent periods of drought in dry climates.
- Clays, on the other hand, hold water very well, almost too well, such that they often drain poorly, and can drown the roots of plants, which require some degree of oxygen for aeration.
- The best soils are a mix of the various soil types along with a good amount of organic matter. In general, organic matter such as peat moss is the best way to amend poor soils, both those that are too sandy and those that are too heavy (clay).
B. Soil pH is the relative acidity or alkalinity of the soil. Soils with different pH levels are able to hold or provide various nutrients to plants in different ways. This is of particular importance in that specific plants have adapted to specific soil types, and may not perform in other types. In general, a neutral soil is best for most plants, meaning a pH of 6 to 7.5. It is possible to amend the pH of a soil, but this requires effort and much planning; specially prepared beds with custom-mixed soils are the best way to create growing environments for plants with specific pH preferences.
C. Soil fertility is a measure of the key nutrients available to plants from the soil. The major nutrients are nitrogen, which aids in the development of lush, green foliage; potassium, which is important in the development of fruits and increases resistance to disease; and, phosphorus, which aids in flower and root development, along with trace elements such as calcium, magnesium, copper and zinc. Plants will generally decline in soils which have nutrient deficiencies.
- Nutrients can be added to soils through applications of fertilizers. Fertilizers are rated by a universal system according to the composition of the three major nutrients. The first is the volume percentage concentration of nitrogen, the second is the concentration of phosphorus, and the third is the concentration of potassium. A 10-30-10 fertilizer has 10% nitrogen, 30% phosphorus and 10% potassium by volume, meaning that it would be effective in promoting the development of roots and flowers. In addition, fertilizers can include soil pH amendments which can help maintain the acidity of soils for certain acid-loving plants.
- Cultivation, earthworms, frost action and rodents mix the soil. This activity decreases the size of the peds to form a granular (or crumb) structure. This structure allows for good porosity and easy movement of air and water. The combination of ease in tillage, good moisture and air-handling capabilities, good structure for planting and germination are definitive of good tilth.
Source: www.northscaping.com